Life of Guangzhou - Serving Cantonese Opera: A Lifetime Commitment for Liang Lizhen

Liang Lizhen is the third generation of costume makers. (Guagnzhou Daily)

Liang Lizhen has been making traditional Cantonese costumes for the past 32 years. All her career has been dedicated to weaving the dozens of ancient costumes she is expert in, often for the most prominent opera actors and actresses and always using ancient Cantonese embroidery techniques.

Costumes for Cantonese opera are of brilliant and opulent colors. (Guagnzhou Daily)

Rules passed down through generations

Cantonese opera is a wonderful part of Lingnan culture and the brilliance of a costume maker greatly contributes to a perfect show. As the saying goes: wearing a worn-out costume is better than wearing the wrong costume. Indeed, in Cantonese Opera, a costume must represent the status and personality of the character.

In Liang Lizhen words, making a costume is simple. The most important is to keep all the rules in mind: Bao Gong's costume must be black and Guan Gong's must be green. A fowl should be embroidered onto the costume of a civilian whilst a beast should be embroidered onto the costume of a military officer. Different animals are used to distinguish between the ranks of different officers and each character is equipped with a special helmet, boots and flag.

After 30 years of weaving, her hands are still as soft as those of a young girl. (Guagnzhou Daily)

A craft still fighting to survive

Although she has been working with scissors and needles for over thirty years, her hands are still as soft as those of a young girl. She believes it is due to the movements that increase blood circulation. What is certain is that her commitment to tradition is still strong. Although Cantonese Opera is slowly disappearing, her workshop, China Costume Factory is still surviving, along with several other traditional costume workshops

Liu Si, the 74-year-old veteran, is the doyen of the China Costume Factory. He studied under the famous costume master Huo Guoquan. He told us: "In those days, the master wouldn't accept to teach his skills to anyone. An apprentice would have to be observant and diligent."

Liang Lizhen entered the workshop in 1977 and served as his apprentice for the next two years. She says: "Lots of people envy me because I have the chance to work in this workshop. Today, most of those who entered the factory at the same time as me have changed profession."

Creativity found amongst tradition

30 years ago, every performer in a troupe would have his or her own costume. Liang Lizhen still remembers the days when some of the most famous artists such as Hong Xiannv, Ma Shizeng, Luo Pinchao, and Luo Jiabao would place their orders in person. They would leave tickets so that the costume makers could watch their show and think of new personal designs for their costume. "For example, once Hong Xian wanted a piece of Bai Jia Yi which is traditionally with one single color. But we made it with light-colored prints and plain silk fabric. That made Hong Xiannv very happy."

(By Yang Xuan, David Keyton)